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Yogyakarta: 20 routes

A sultan’s city of batik, gamelan and street food, with Borobudur, Prambanan, a smoking volcano and a wild southern coast all within a day’s reach.

I came to Yogyakarta, or Jogja as everyone here calls it, for the temples and stayed for the city. It is a place that still keeps time by a royal calendar: the sultan lives in his palace at the centre, gamelan plays on certain mornings, and old women sell gudeg from the same street corners their grandmothers did. Students fill the cafés, becak drivers doze in their seats, and on clear mornings Merapi shows itself to the north, a faint plume rising from its summit.

These twenty routes start in the old city and fan out to the great temples of the plain, the volcano’s slopes, the caves and beaches of the south, and a couple of longer journeys beyond. Each has practical notes and a little of the history behind it. Tickets, rules and volcano alerts change, so check locally before you go.

The Kraton: a morning inside the sultan’s palace

Kraton & old cityhalf a dayEasy

Pavilions of teak and gold, palace servants in batik and blangkon, and a gamelan orchestra playing for whoever happens to wander in.

Taman Sari: the water castle and the underground mosque

Kraton & old cityhalf a dayEasy

A royal pleasure garden of pools, tunnels and a circular mosque hidden underground, now half swallowed by a lively neighbourhood of artists and bird-sellers.

Malioboro and the southern square by night

Kraton & old cityeveningEasy

From the station to the sultan’s southern square: street musicians, horse carts, sweet tea and a blindfolded walk between two sacred banyan trees.

Kotagede: silversmiths and the first capital of Mataram

Kraton & old cityhalf a dayEasy

Lanes so narrow two bicycles can barely pass, the patient tap of silversmiths’ hammers, and the mossy tombs of the kings who founded Mataram.

A day of gudeg, angkringan and charcoal coffee

Kraton & old city1 dayEasy

Sweet jackfruit stew at dawn, goat satay grilled on bicycle spokes, and coffee with a glowing lump of charcoal dropped into the glass.

A rainy day of batik, shadow puppets and museums

Kraton & old city1 dayEasy

When the afternoon storms roll in, learn to draw with hot wax, wander a museum of Javanese treasures, and watch leather puppets cast their shadows.

Borobudur: climbing the stone mandala

Temples of the plain1 dayEasy

The largest Buddhist monument in the world rises above the Kedu plain, its galleries of carved stories leading pilgrims in slow circles towards the sky.

Sunrise above the mist and the villages around Borobudur

Temples of the plain1 day, or overnightEasy

Watch Borobudur emerge from a sea of mist beneath the volcanoes, then cycle through rice fields to two small temples linked to it by an ancient line.

Prambanan and the Ramayana ballet under the stars

Temples of the plainafternoon and eveningEasy

Soaring Hindu towers glow orange in the late sun, and after dark the Ramayana is danced against their silhouette, as the gamelan fills the night air.

Ratu Boko: a palace on the hill at sunset

Temples of the plainhalf a dayEasy

A great stone gate on a hilltop, the remains of pools and halls, and the sun setting behind Merapi while Prambanan’s towers glow on the plain below.

Cycling to the quiet temples: Sewu, Plaosan and Sambisari

Temples of the plain1 dayModerate

Twin Buddhist temples among rice fields, a shrine buried under volcanic ash for a thousand years, and barely another visitor in sight.

Merapi: a jeep ride through the 2010 eruption zone

Merapi & the northhalf a dayEasy

An open jeep bouncing over riverbeds of volcanic boulders, a village museum of melted belongings, and the smoking peak of Indonesia’s most active volcano.

Kaliurang hills and the Ullen Sentalu museum

Merapi & the north1 dayEasy

A cool old hill town on the volcano’s flank, pine-scented trails, and a mysterious museum of Javanese princesses hidden in a stone labyrinth.

Merbabu: an overnight hike above the clouds

Merapi & the north2 daysHard

Grassy ridges, a night in a tent at 3,000 metres, and a sunrise view straight across to Merapi’s smoking crater.

Jomblang Cave: descending to the light from heaven

South coast & karst1 dayModerate

Lowered on a rope sixty metres into a collapsed sinkhole full of ancient forest, you walk through darkness into a column of sunlight falling from the sky.

Parangtritis: sand dunes and the Queen of the Southern Sea

South coast & karsthalf a dayEasy

A wide black-sand shore where giant waves pound the beach, rippled dunes glow at dusk, and every Javanese knows not to wear green.

The white beaches and rope bridges of Gunungkidul

South coast & karst1 day, or overnightEasy

Small coves of white sand between limestone headlands, rock pools full of tiny fish, and a wobbly rope bridge swinging over the surf to a lobster fishers’ island.

Imogiri’s royal tombs and the misty hills of Mangunan

South coast & karst1 dayModerate

Climb hundreds of stone steps to the hilltop graves of Java’s kings, then watch the Oyo valley fill with mist from a pine forest above the clouds.

The Dieng Plateau: temples in the clouds

Beyond Jogja2 daysModerate

Java’s oldest standing temples on a cold volcanic plateau at 2,000 metres, with bubbling craters, coloured lakes and a sunrise above a sea of clouds.

A day in Solo, the other royal city

Beyond Jogja1 dayEasy

Jogja’s gentler sister city: two royal palaces, the largest batik market in Java, antique stalls, and a breakfast of rice cooked in coconut milk.

Prices, opening hours and rules change. Treat these notes as a starting point and check current information before you go.