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Bali: 20 routes

Rice terraces, volcano sunrises, temple ceremonies and reefs: twenty slow routes around the island beyond the beach clubs.

I first came to Bali for a week and, like many people, spent most of it in traffic between beach cafés. It took a few more trips, a lot of rain and a patient Balinese host to show me that the island is mostly something else: villages that still run on temple calendars, volcanoes that shape every view, and water flowing through a thousand-year-old irrigation system.

These routes are the places I keep going back to or keep recommending to friends. Each one has practical notes on getting there and what to watch out for, plus a little of the history and the stories behind it. Rules, tickets and roads change often in Bali, so treat everything here as a starting point and check locally before you go.

Ubud: palace, market and the Monkey Forest

Ubud & centre1 dayEasy

The cultural heart of the island, where a royal palace, a lotus temple and a forest full of macaques sit within one easy walk.

The Campuhan ridge walk at sunrise

Ubud & centre2–3 hoursEasy

A paved path along a grassy ridge between two rivers, best walked when the mist still sits in the valleys.

Tegallalang and the rice terraces north of Ubud

Ubud & centrehalf a dayEasy

The terraces from the postcards: stepped green curves on steep valley walls, fed by water channels older than most cathedrals.

Tirta Empul and the cliff shrines of Gunung Kawi

Ubud & centrehalf a dayEasy

A thousand-year-old holy spring where people queue to purify themselves, and royal shrines carved into a river gorge.

Mount Batur: a sunrise above the clouds

Ubud & centre1 night startModerate

A night climb up an active volcano, breakfast cooked on volcanic steam and a view of Mount Agung and Lake Batur at dawn.

Jatiluwih: the UNESCO rice terraces

Westhalf a day – 1 dayEasy

Vast, rolling rice terraces on the slopes of Mount Batukaru, wider and quieter than the famous ones near Ubud.

Tanah Lot: the temple on the rock at sunset

Westhalf a dayEasy

A small temple on a rock in the sea, cut off at high tide, silhouetted against the setting sun.

West Bali National Park and Menjangan Island

West2–3 daysModerate

Wild forest, rare birds and some of Bali's best coral walls, at the quiet far end of the island.

Munduk and the twin lakes of Buyan and Tamblingan

North2 daysModerate

Cool mountain air, clove and coffee plantations, misty crater lakes and waterfalls hidden in the forest.

Ulun Danu Beratan: the floating temple

Northhalf a dayEasy

Thatched shrines that seem to float on a mountain lake, with mist rolling down from the forested hills.

Sekumpul: Bali's most beautiful waterfall

North1 dayModerate

A cluster of tall falls pouring into a jungle amphitheatre, at the bottom of a long stairway.

Lovina: black sand, hot springs and a Buddhist monastery

North2 daysEasy

A sleepy north-coast stretch with calm sea, dawn boat trips and a Buddhist monastery in the hills.

Lempuyang: the Gates of Heaven and the climb above them

East1 dayChallenging

A split gate framing Mount Agung, and for the devoted, a long stairway climb to a temple in the clouds.

Tirta Gangga: the water palace of Karangasem

Easthalf a dayEasy

Ponds, fountains and stepping stones over fish-filled water, built by the last king of Karangasem.

Sidemen: the valley that time forgot

East2–3 daysEasy

Rice terraces, weaving villages and the cone of Mount Agung, with none of the crowds of Ubud.

Besakih: the Mother Temple on the slopes of Agung

Easthalf a dayEasy

Bali's most important temple complex, rising in terraces up the side of the island's sacred volcano.

Amed and Tulamben: black sand and the Liberty wreck

East3–4 daysEasy

Fishing villages, snorkelling straight from the beach and a Second World War shipwreck covered in coral.

Uluwatu: cliff temple and the Kecak fire dance

South coasthalf a dayEasy

A temple on the edge of a 70-metre cliff and a hypnotic dance performed at sunset by dozens of chanting men.

Nusa Penida: Kelingking and the wild coast

Nusa islands2–3 daysChallenging

The dramatic island with the dinosaur-shaped cliff, manta rays and some of the roughest roads you'll ever ride.

Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan: mangroves and the yellow bridge

Nusa islands2–3 daysEasy

A small, laid-back island of white sand, seaweed farms and mangrove channels, with a bridge to its tiny neighbour.

Prices, opening hours and rules change. Treat these notes as a starting point and check current information before you go.