Tirta Empul and the cliff shrines of Gunung Kawi

A thousand-year-old holy spring where people queue to purify themselves, and royal shrines carved into a river gorge.

Area

Ubud & centre

Start from

Ubud

Distance

about 15 km

Time needed

half a day

Best season

All year

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Taxi or scooter

Tickets & rules

Entry tickets; sarong and sash required

Why go

Tirta Empul in Tampaksiring is one of the most important water temples in Bali. Spring water bubbles up into a large pool inside the temple and flows out through a row of carved spouts into bathing pools, where Balinese and visitors line up to be purified under each spout in turn.

It's a living place of worship, not a museum: families arrive in white ceremonial clothes with offerings, and priests lead prayers. If you take part in the purification, follow the local guidance on the order of the spouts and the prayers.

Nearby, Gunung Kawi is a set of huge shrines carved directly into the rock faces of a river gorge, reached by a long stairway through rice fields. The setting, with the river below and palm trees above, is spectacular.

The story

Tirta Empul is traditionally dated to around 962 AD, during the Warmadewa dynasty. Legend tells that the god Indra created the spring to revive his army after they were poisoned by the evil king Mayadenawa, who had forbidden people to worship the gods.

Gunung Kawi's shrines are carved candi facades, each about seven metres high. They are thought to be memorials to an eleventh-century royal family, possibly King Anak Wungsu and his relatives, rather than tombs.

Next to Tirta Empul stands a presidential palace built for Indonesia's first president, Sukarno, who loved Bali; his mother was Balinese.

Getting there

Both sites are north-east of Ubud, a short drive from each other. Combine them with Tegallalang in a half-day or full-day trip.

A suggested plan

1. 08:00Tirta Empul when it opens, while the pools are calmer.
2. 09:30Change into dry clothes and visit the inner courtyards.
3. 10:30Drive to Gunung Kawi; walk down the stairs to the shrines.
4. 12:00Lunch at a warung in Tampaksiring.

Where to stay

Base in Ubud.

Good to know

• Bring dry clothes and a towel if you plan to bathe; there are changing rooms and a special bathing sarong is provided or rented.
• Women who are menstruating are traditionally asked not to enter temples; this is a local custom you should respect.
• The climb back up from Gunung Kawi is steep; take it slowly.