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Sidemen: the valley that time forgot

Rice terraces, weaving villages and the cone of Mount Agung, with none of the crowds of Ubud.

Sidemen: the valley that time forgot
Photo: Paul Arps from The Netherlands · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Area
East
Start from
Ubud
Distance
about 1.5 hours
Time needed
2–3 days
Best season
All year
Difficulty
Easy
Transport
Car or scooter
Tickets & rules
None

Why go

Sidemen is a valley in East Bali that feels like Ubud did decades ago. Rice terraces climb the hills, Mount Agung looms above, and life follows the rhythm of farming and ceremonies.

The villages are famous for songket and ikat weaving; you can visit workshops where women weave on traditional looms.

Days here are for walking, cycling, reading on a terrace and eating very good home-cooked food.

The story

Sidemen attracted Western artists in the twentieth century, including Walter Spies, who spent time here, but it never developed into a tourist town.

Songket weaving uses gold or silver thread woven into silk or cotton, and it's worn at important ceremonies. Learning to weave is still part of growing up for many girls in the area.

Mount Agung, visible from almost everywhere in the valley, is the holiest mountain in Bali, and its presence shapes daily life and ritual here.

Photo: Adimelali Bali · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Getting there

Drive east from Ubud via Klungkung. The road into the valley is narrow and winding.

A suggested plan

  1. Day 1Arrive, sunset walk through the terraces.
  2. Day 2Guided walk through villages; visit a weaving workshop.
  3. Day 3Day trip to Besakih or Lempuyang.

Where to stay

Guesthouses and villas with views of the terraces and Agung.

Good to know

  • Hire a local guide for village walks; you'll see and understand much more.
  • Bring cash; ATMs are limited.
Watch out
  • Roads are narrow; drive slowly.
  • Respect private compounds.

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