I came to Kampot meaning to stay three nights and left after almost three weeks. It is that kind of town: a wide brown river, faded yellow shophouses, a mountain that disappears into cloud every afternoon, and evenings that end with a bowl of noodles and the sound of boats heading home. From here it is half an hour to Kep and its crab market, an hour or two to limestone caves and pepper farms, and a few hours more to the islands off Sihanoukville.
These routes are the ones I would give a friend. Some are short walks in town, some are full days on a scooter, and a few need a boat. Prices, ferry timetables and road conditions on this coast change often, so treat every number here as a rough guide and check locally before you set off.
