Phnom Chhnork: a temple hidden inside a cave

A walk across rice paddies to a limestone hill, a climb down into a cave, and a seventh-century brick temple standing in the half-light where it was built.

Area

Countryside & caves

Start from

Kampot

Distance

about 8–10 km each way

Time needed

half a day

Best season

All year; November – April for dry paths

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Bicycle, scooter or tuk-tuk, then a short walk

Tickets & rules

Small entry fee; modest dress

Why go

Phnom Chhnork is one of my favourite places in southern Cambodia. From the road you walk along raised paths through rice fields toward a sudden limestone hill, and as you get closer you see a staircase leading up into its side.

Inside, the cave opens into a high chamber lit by shafts of sunlight from holes in the rock. In one corner, built into the cave wall, stands a small brick temple, its tower still recognisable after some thirteen centuries. Stalactites hang above it like folded curtains, and bats chatter in the darkness overhead.

It is small, atmospheric and rarely crowded, and the walk across the fields is as beautiful as the cave itself.

The story

The brick temple inside the cave dates from roughly the seventh century, before the rise of Angkor, when this region was part of the early Khmer kingdoms known in Chinese records as Funan and then Chenla. It was dedicated to Shiva, and its builders chose the cave deliberately: caves and mountains were sacred places, homes of the gods.

Hindu temples of this age are rare in Cambodia, and very few survive in caves. This one has lasted because the cave protected it from rain and roots. Look for the small carved details on the brickwork and the way the temple seems to grow out of the rock.

Over the centuries the site passed into Buddhist hands, like most of Cambodia’s sacred places, and a modern pagoda stands at the foot of the hill. Monks and villagers still come to make offerings in the cave.

Local children often act as guides, leading visitors through the cave with torches and pointing out formations they call elephants, crocodiles and Buddhas. They know the cave far better than any book, and a small tip at the end is appreciated.

Getting there

Phnom Chhnork is northeast of Kampot, roughly 8–10 km by road; follow signs from the road toward Kep and then smaller roads through the villages. The final part is a walk of ten minutes or so through rice fields from the parking area by the pagoda. Many countryside tours combine it with the salt fields and Phnom Sorsia.

A suggested plan

1. 7:30 amRide out of Kampot through villages and fields.
2. 8:00 amWalk across the paddies to the hill; climb the staircase to the cave.
3. 8:30 amExplore the cave and the brick temple with a local child guide.
4. 9:30 amVisit the pagoda at the foot of the hill, then ride back or on to the salt fields.

Where to stay

Kampot is closest. If you are staying in Kep, it combines easily with a day of caves and pepper farms.

Good to know

• Bring a torch or use your phone light for the darker parts of the cave.
• Wear shoes with grip; the steps and cave floor are slippery.
• Agree on a tip with child guides in advance, or give a small amount at the end.
• Go early, when the light through the rice fields is soft and it is cooler.