Practical tips: Kampot, Kep & the islands

What I wish I'd known before my first trip.

Getting there

Kampot is about 150 km from Phnom Penh, roughly three to four hours by bus, minivan or shared taxi, and Kep is around 25 km further on. From Sihanoukville, Kampot is about 100 km, two hours or a little more by road. On some days a slow train runs between Phnom Penh, Kampot and Sihanoukville; it is scenic and relaxing, but check current timetables before you plan around it. Sihanoukville’s airport has a limited number of domestic and international flights.

Visas and entry

Many nationalities can get a Cambodian visa on arrival at the international airports and main land borders, or apply for an e-visa online in advance. The Prek Chak – Xa Xia crossing near Kep and Kampong Trach links this coast with Ha Tien in Vietnam, though you will need a Vietnamese visa or exemption to cross. Entry rules and fees change, so check official government sources shortly before you travel.

Money

Cambodia runs on two currencies: US dollars for most prices and Cambodian riel for small change, at roughly four thousand riel to the dollar. Torn or very old dollar notes are often refused, so check your change. ATMs are easy to find in Kampot and Kep, but rare or unreliable on the islands. Cards are accepted in some hotels and larger restaurants; everywhere else, carry small notes.

Seasons

The dry season runs from November to April. December to February is the most comfortable time, with clear skies and cooler nights, while March and April are hot and hazy. The rainy season, roughly May to October, brings afternoon storms, green countryside, full waterfalls on Bokor and fewer visitors, but rougher seas for island ferries. Salt is harvested in the dry season, pepper from about February to May.

Health

Mosquitoes, including those that carry dengue, are present all year and most active in the rainy season, so use repellent day and night. Drink bottled or filtered water; many guesthouses offer refills. Pharmacies are common in Kampot and Kep, but serious medical care is limited, and for anything significant people go to Phnom Penh. Good travel insurance with evacuation cover is important, especially if you plan to ride scooters.

Etiquette

Dress modestly at pagodas, shrines and in Cham villages, covering shoulders and knees. Remove shoes before entering temples and homes. Don’t touch people’s heads or point your feet at people or at Buddha images. A slight bow with palms together, the sampeah, is a polite greeting. Monks should not be touched by women, and it is respectful to keep your voice down at shrines.

Safety

Kampot and Kep are generally relaxed and safe, but petty theft happens, so keep valuables out of sight. Roads are the biggest danger: traffic is chaotic, potholes are common and night riding is risky, so wear a helmet and ride slowly. Landmines are not a concern on normal tourist routes in this area, but stay on marked paths in remote hills and caves. Swim carefully, as there are rarely lifeguards.

Prices and scams

Serious scams are rare here, but misunderstandings over prices are common. Agree the fare before tuk-tuk rides and the price per kilo before seafood is cooked. Ferry tickets should be bought from guesthouses or official offices rather than from strangers at the bus station. If someone offers unsolicited help with bags or tickets, a polite ‘no thank you’ is usually enough.

SIM cards and connectivity

Local SIM cards with generous data are cheap and quick to buy at the airport or phone shops in town; you will need your passport. Coverage is good in Kampot, Kep and along the main roads, patchier on Bokor, in the caves and on parts of the islands. Most guesthouses and cafés have Wi-Fi, though speed varies, and power cuts sometimes interrupt it on the islands.