I came to Bohol for the Chocolate Hills, like everyone, and stayed for the things in between: a river that moves at the pace of a rowing boat, churches built of coral blocks by people who never saw them finished, a fisherman on Pamilacan who could read the sea’s surface like a newspaper. I shot six rolls of film in the first week and most of them were of light on water. Then a slow ferry south took me to Siquijor, where the stories got stranger and the roads got quieter.
These routes are the ones I would give a friend. Each comes with practical notes and a little of the history and folklore behind the place. Prices, ferry schedules and entrance fees change often here, and typhoons and earthquakes have reshaped both islands more than once, so treat everything as a starting point and check locally before you set off.
