Pamilacan: from whale hunters to dolphin watchers

An island once famous for hunting mantas and whale sharks now takes visitors out at dawn to watch dolphins, a quiet story of how a community changed its relationship with the sea.

Area

Panglao & reefs

Start from

Baclayon or Panglao

Distance

about 20 km by boat

Time needed

1 day

Best season

Best around March – June for calm seas and whale sightings

Difficulty

Moderate

Transport

Banca boat

Tickets & rules

Community tour and sanctuary fees

Why go

We left Baclayon before sunrise in a narrow banca with bamboo outriggers. The sea was flat and pink, and our boatman stood on the bow scanning the water. After half an hour he pointed, and a group of spinner dolphins surfaced around us, some leaping and turning in the air, others cruising quietly beside the boat.

Pamilacan itself is a small, hilly island with a fishing village, a Spanish-era watchtower and a few simple guesthouses. After the dolphins, you can snorkel off its beaches, walk the village paths and eat grilled fish caught that morning.

What makes the trip special is the story behind it. Many of the boatmen who take you out are from families that used to hunt large marine animals, and now make a living by showing them to visitors.

The story

The island’s name is often connected with the local word pamilac, a harpoon used to hunt large fish. For generations, Pamilacan families hunted manta rays, whale sharks and small whales in the Bohol Sea, using hand-thrown harpoons from small boats. Meat was dried and sold in local markets.

In 1998, the Philippine government banned the hunting of whale sharks and manta rays. The ban was hard on the islanders, and some resisted at first. Conservation groups and the local government worked with the community to set up dolphin and whale-watching tours, training former hunters as guides and boatmen.

Today, visitors mostly see spinner dolphins, and with luck Fraser’s dolphins, pilot whales or Bryde’s whales, especially in the calmer months of the year. Sightings are never guaranteed, which is exactly how it should be with wild animals.

The old Spanish watchtower on the island was part of the coastal defence network against raiders. Like many in Bohol, it stands now as a quiet reminder of a time when danger came from the sea.

Getting there

Community-based tours leave from Baclayon, east of Tagbilaran, and some leave from Panglao. The crossing takes roughly 45 minutes to an hour, depending on the sea.

Book through your accommodation or the community tourism office in Baclayon, and leave as early as possible for the best chance of dolphins.

A suggested plan

1. 5:30Meet the boat in Baclayon or Panglao.
2. 6:00Dolphin watching on the way out to Pamilacan.
3. 8:30Arrive on the island; snorkel off the beach or the marine sanctuary.
4. 11:00Lunch of grilled fish in the village.
5. 13:00Return to Bohol before afternoon winds pick up.

Where to stay

Most people come as a day trip. Simple homestays exist on Pamilacan for those who want to stay overnight and see the island after the day boats leave.

Good to know

• Bring a hat, sunscreen and water; there is no shade on the open sea.
• Ask the boatmen about their families’ history; many are happy to talk.
• Seasickness tablets help if you are prone to it.