Lazi: the convent, the church and the old balete tree

A huge coral-stone convent, a church with wooden floors and an ancient balete tree with a spring at its roots where tiny fish nibble your feet.

Area

Siquijor

Start from

San Juan

Distance

about 20 km

Time needed

half a day

Best season

All year

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Scooter or tricycle

Tickets & rules

Small fees at the convent museum and the balete tree

Why go

Lazi feels like a town that history passed through slowly. The church of San Isidro Labrador and its convent face each other across a road under big acacia trees, and both are much larger than you would expect on an island this size.

The church has coral-stone walls and a floor made of wooden planks that creak under your feet. Across the road, the convent is often described as one of the largest in Asia; its long, two-storey wooden upper floor sits on a heavy stone ground floor, with tall shuttered windows letting in light and breeze.

Down the road, a giant balete tree, a type of strangler fig, spreads over a spring-fed pool. You can sit on the edge and put your feet in, and small fish come and nibble at them. It is part silly, part enchanting.

The story

The church and convent in Lazi were built by the Augustinian Recollects in the late nineteenth century, using coral stone and hardwood. The convent was finished around the 1890s. It is said to have been built for the friars’ rest and retreat, which may explain its size.

The balete tree is often said to be over 400 years old, though no one is really sure. In Philippine folklore, balete trees are homes of spirits and supernatural beings, and in Siquijor many people avoid cutting them or disturbing them.

The spring at the base of the tree flows out from among the roots and has been dammed into a small pool. Locals say the water never stops flowing, even in dry years.

The town of Lazi is also known for its people, who are said to be among the most traditional on the island. One shopkeeper told me that you could still find people in Lazi who would not walk past the balete tree at night.

Getting there

Lazi is on the southern coast of Siquijor, about 30 minutes from San Juan by scooter. The balete tree is in Campalanas, between San Juan and Lazi, right next to the main road.

It is easy to combine with Cambugahay Falls, a short ride inland from Lazi.

A suggested plan

1. 8:30Stop at the balete tree and put your feet in the pool.
2. 9:30Visit the church of San Isidro Labrador in Lazi.
3. 10:15Cross the road to the convent and its small museum.
4. 11:00Continue to Cambugahay Falls for a swim.
5. 13:00Lunch in Lazi or return to San Juan.

Where to stay

San Juan or Lazi. Lazi is quieter and closer to the falls.

Good to know

• Go early for the balete tree; it is a popular stop.
• Wear covered shoulders and knees for the church.
• Take your time in the convent; the upstairs light is beautiful.