Cunca Wulang: jumping into a jungle canyon

An hour from the coast, a river cuts a narrow gorge through the hills: walk down through candlenut and cacao gardens, then swim, float and jump between turquoise pools.

Area

West Flores

Start from

Labuan Bajo

Distance

about 30 km inland, then a 30–45 minute walk

Time needed

half a day to 1 day

Best season

Best April – October; dangerous after heavy rain

Difficulty

Moderate

Transport

Car or scooter, then a walk with a local guide

Tickets & rules

Entrance and guide fees paid in the village

Why go

After days of hot, dry islands, Cunca Wulang feels like another country. The road climbs inland from Labuan Bajo through farmland and forest to a village on the slopes, where local guides wait to lead you down. The path drops through family gardens of candlenut, cacao, coffee and bananas, past a few houses and a church, until you hear the river.

The canyon itself is narrow and steep-sided, with smooth grey walls and green water. In the dry season the river is calm enough to swim upstream between the walls, float on your back and look up at the strip of sky. At several points guides will show you where it is safe to jump from the rocks into deep pools, some from three or four metres, some much higher for the brave.

There is also a waterfall at the head of the gorge, the cunca of the name. Sitting on a warm rock below it, with the sound of water and birds, is one of the best moments of a Flores trip. And the walk back up, sweaty and happy, ends with a cold drink in the village.

The story

Cunca means waterfall in Manggarai, the language of western Flores, and wulang is often translated as moon. Locals say it was named for the way moonlight falls into the gorge at night, though you may hear other versions depending on whom you ask.

The canyon sits in Manggarai Barat, the westernmost district of Flores, where most people farm on steep slopes. In recent years tourism has given some villages near Labuan Bajo a new source of income. In Cunca Wulang the community runs the guiding and ticketing, and the money goes back into the village, which is a good model compared with places where outsiders take most of the profit.

Nearby there is another waterfall, Cunca Rami, reached by a longer walk through forest and rice fields, with a wide curtain of water and a pool below. If you enjoy the first, it is worth combining both on a full day inland, especially if the sea is rough.

Getting there

From Labuan Bajo, follow the main road east towards Ruteng, then turn off to the village of Wersawe, about an hour’s drive in total. Many drivers know the way; scooters work for experienced riders, but the side road can be rough.

At the village, register, pay the fees and hire a guide. The walk down takes roughly half an hour to forty-five minutes.

A suggested plan

1. MorningDrive inland from Labuan Bajo and meet a guide in the village.
2. Late morningWalk down through gardens to the canyon.
3. MiddaySwim upstream, jump from the rocks and rest below the waterfall.
4. Early afternoonWalk back up and have lunch in the village or on the way.
5. AfternoonOptional: continue to Cunca Rami, or return to town.

Where to stay

Labuan Bajo is the easy base. If you are heading overland to Ruteng, do Cunca Wulang on the way, with an early start.

Good to know

• Wear sandals with straps or water shoes; the rocks are slippery.
• Bring a dry bag for your phone and money.
• Ask the guide to point out the safe jumping spots; depths change with the season.
• Small notes for fees and drinks in the village help.