Pink Beach and the islands of the southeast

A day by boat around the wild southeastern tip of Lombok, with pink-tinged sand, tiny white islands and snorkelling in water so clear the coral seems close enough to touch.

Area

Sembalun & the east

Start from

Tanjung Luar or Jerowaru

Distance

about 60–80 km from Kuta by road, then by boat

Time needed

1 day

Best season

April – October for calmer seas

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Car to Tanjung Luar, then a hired boat

Tickets & rules

Boat hire; small fees at some beaches

Why go

Pantai Tangsi, better known as Pink Beach, lies at the far southeastern corner of Lombok, on a remote peninsula of dry hills and savannah. The sand is fine and, when the light is right and the waves have washed in tiny fragments of red coral and shells, it really does glow pink, especially at the water’s edge.

Getting there is half the pleasure. Most people hire a boat from the fishing port of Tanjung Luar or nearby villages and spend the day hopping around the coast: small islands with white sand and clear turquoise water, sheltered bays for snorkelling and long stretches where you will see only fishing boats and seaweed farmers.

The southeast is the least-visited part of Lombok. It is dry and sparse, with goats on the hills and long empty roads. That emptiness is the attraction: on a weekday you may share Pink Beach with only a handful of other people.

The story

Tangsi means barracks, and locals say the beach takes its name from a military post in the area in colonial or wartime times. Around Tanjung Ringgit, the cape at the very tip, there are remains said to be Japanese wartime fortifications, including a cannon. As with much local history, details are passed on orally and vary from teller to teller.

The pink colour comes from foraminifera and coral fragments. Foraminifera are tiny single-celled organisms with red or pink shells that live on the reef; when they die, their shells are washed ashore with the sand. The colour is subtle, strongest in wet sand and after storms.

Tanjung Luar, where the boats leave, is a busy fishing town, and its morning fish market is one of the largest in the region. It has been known for landing sharks and rays, which conservation groups have worked to monitor and regulate. It is an honest, sometimes uncomfortable look at how fishing communities make a living.

Many people along this coast are Bajo, a seafaring people historically associated with boats and stilt villages across eastern Indonesia, and Bugis, whose ancestors sailed from Sulawesi. Their houses on stilts and colourful boats give the bay a different feel from the Sasak villages inland.

Getting there

From Kuta it is roughly an hour and a half by car to Tanjung Luar. Drivers can take you to the port and help negotiate a boat. Agree the itinerary, the number of stops, snorkel gear and the price before leaving.

You can also drive to Pink Beach by road, but the last stretch is rough; the boat trip is easier and more beautiful.

A suggested plan

1. Early morningDrive from Kuta to Tanjung Luar and look round the fish market.
2. MorningBoat to one of the small islands nearby for swimming and snorkelling.
3. MiddayArrive at Pink Beach; picnic or a simple lunch arranged with the boatman.
4. AfternoonSnorkel in a sheltered bay on the way back.
5. Late afternoonReturn to Tanjung Luar and drive back as the light softens over the hills.

Where to stay

Most people visit from Kuta Lombok. There are very few places to stay in the southeast, though a handful of guesthouses and eco-lodges exist around Ekas and Jerowaru for those who want real quiet.

Good to know

• Bring food, water, sunscreen and a hat; there are few or no shops on the islands.
• Snorkel gear on boats can be poor; bring your own if you have it.
• Go early to avoid the afternoon wind.
• Small cash notes help for fees and tips.