A rainy day in the Civic District: galleries, museums and Fort Canning

Old colonial halls turned into some of Asia's finest museums, joined by short walks under covered walkways and a green hill full of history.

Area

Heritage quarters

Start from

City Hall MRT

Distance

about 3 km on foot, mostly between buildings

Time needed

1 day

Best season

All year; ideal on rainy or very hot days

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

MRT to City Hall, Bras Basah or Fort Canning

Tickets & rules

Museum tickets; check for free days and combined passes

Why go

When the sky opens, and in Singapore it opens often, the Civic District is the place to be. Within a short walk of City Hall MRT are the National Gallery, the Asian Civilisations Museum, the Peranakan Museum and the National Museum, each housed in a handsome old building and each good enough to fill a morning.

The National Gallery is the grandest. It occupies the old Supreme Court and City Hall, joined by a huge, light-filled roof, and holds the world's largest public collection of modern art from Singapore and Southeast Asia. Even if paintings are not your thing, the building, with its old courtrooms and rooftop garden overlooking the Padang, is worth seeing.

My favourite is the Asian Civilisations Museum by the river, which tells stories of trade across Asia through ceramics, textiles and religious art. The Peranakan Museum, a short walk away, is a jewel box of beaded slippers, porcelain and wedding furniture. On a dry spell between showers, climb Fort Canning Hill for gardens, old gates and a view through the trees.

The story

Long before the British arrived, Fort Canning Hill was the seat of kings. The Malays called it Bukit Larangan, the Forbidden Hill, and archaeologists have found remains of a 14th-century settlement here, including Chinese porcelain and gold jewellery. Raffles built his residence on the hill, and later the British built a fort, named after a viceroy of India. During the Second World War the British command used an underground bunker here known as the Battlebox.

The Asian Civilisations Museum's most famous treasure comes from the sea. The Tang Shipwreck collection was recovered from an Arab-style vessel that sank off Belitung, Indonesia, in the 9th century, carrying tens of thousands of pieces of Chinese ceramics and some gold and silver. It is a vivid picture of how goods moved between China and the Middle East more than a thousand years ago.

The Peranakans, sometimes called Straits Chinese, are descendants of Chinese traders who married local women from the region centuries ago. They developed their own language, cuisine and style: the women's kebaya blouses with lace and fine embroidery, the beaded slippers, the porcelain painted in pinks and greens. The museum's rooms on weddings and home life are full of delightful details.

Opposite the National Gallery lies the Padang, the green field where cricket was played in colonial times and where national parades are still held. Nearby, the Raffles Hotel, opened in 1887 by the Sarkies brothers, still has its white verandas; the Singapore Sling cocktail is said to have been created at its bar in the early 20th century.

Getting there

City Hall MRT (North-South and East-West lines) is the most central stop. Bras Basah, Esplanade and Fort Canning stations are also within walking distance.

Many of the museums are linked by covered walkways, so you can move between them without getting soaked.

A suggested plan

1. 10:00 amNational Gallery: the Southeast Asian galleries and the rooftop view of the Padang.
2. 12:30 pmLunch in the gallery or at a nearby food court.
3. 2:00 pmWalk to the Asian Civilisations Museum for the Tang Shipwreck and the trade galleries.
4. 4:00 pmPeranakan Museum on Armenian Street, or the National Museum if you prefer history.
5. 5:30 pmIf the rain stops, climb Fort Canning Hill through the old gates and spice garden.

Where to stay

Hotels around City Hall and Bras Basah are central and convenient, but pricey; the Bugis area nearby is more affordable.

Good to know

• Check the official sites for free entry days or passes covering several museums.
• Most museums are air-conditioned to an icy degree; bring a light layer.
• The rooftop of the National Gallery is free and has a good view.
• The Raffles Hotel's arcade and courtyards are pleasant to wander even if you are not staying.