Cloud 9: the boardwalk and the surf at dawn

The world-famous reef break that put Siargao on the map, best seen at sunrise from the end of a long wooden boardwalk.

Area

General Luna & Cloud 9

Start from

General Luna, Siargao

Distance

about 2 km from General Luna town

Time needed

half a day

Best season

Surf best roughly September – November; boardwalk all year

Difficulty

Easy (to watch); Hard (to surf the reef)

Transport

Scooter, tricycle or bicycle

Tickets & rules

Small fee for the boardwalk

Why go

Cloud 9 is the reason most people first heard of Siargao. It is a powerful right-hand reef break that forms hollow, barrelling waves over a shallow coral shelf, and on a good swell it is one of the most famous waves in Asia. A long wooden boardwalk runs out over the reef to a viewing tower, so even if you never paddle out you can sit right above the surfers.

The best time is dawn. The light comes up over the Pacific, surfers are already in the water, and the boardwalk is quiet except for the sound of the waves breaking on the reef and the occasional cheer when someone makes it out of a barrel.

For beginners, Cloud 9 itself is not a wave to try, but nearby breaks such as Jacking Horse are gentler and used by surf schools, so you can learn within sight of the legend.

The story

Siargao was a remote, quiet island of fishing villages and coconut farms until surfers found it in the 1980s and 1990s. The wave became widely known after an American photographer, John Callahan, published photographs of it in a surfing magazine in the early 1990s. A popular story says the break got its name from a brand of chocolate bar the early surfers were eating, and the name stuck.

Since the mid-1990s the Siargao International Surfing Cup has been held here, usually around September or October, drawing surfers from around the world. The competition helped turn General Luna from a sleepy town into one of the country’s most popular destinations, and the island now has an airport with regular flights.

In December 2021, Typhoon Odette, known internationally as Rai, struck Siargao with enormous force. Houses, trees and much of the island’s infrastructure were destroyed, including the Cloud 9 boardwalk. The rebuilding was a long, community-wide effort, and the boardwalk and its tower were restored, a symbol for many islanders of Siargao getting back on its feet.

Surfers say Cloud 9 changes with the tide: at low tide the reef is exposed and the wave is dangerous; at mid to high tide it offers its best barrels. Locals who grew up on it are among the best surfers in the Philippines.

Getting there

Cloud 9 is a few kilometres from the centre of General Luna along the main road. A scooter or tricycle takes about ten minutes; cycling is easy and pleasant in the early morning.

Siargao’s airport is at Sayak in Del Carmen, roughly forty-five minutes to an hour from General Luna by van. There are also ferries from Surigao City on Mindanao to Dapa port, followed by a short road transfer.

A suggested plan

1. 5:30Ride to Cloud 9 before sunrise.
2. 6:00Walk out along the boardwalk and climb the viewing tower.
3. 7:00Watch the surfers; check out Jacking Horse nearby if you want a lesson.
4. 8:30Breakfast at one of the cafés along the Cloud 9 road.
5. 10:00Surf lesson at a beginner break or rest before the heat.

Where to stay

General Luna is the base for almost everyone, with guesthouses and small resorts along the Tourism Road and around Cloud 9.

Good to know

• Go at dawn for the best light and calm atmosphere.
• Wear reef booties if you surf near Cloud 9.
• Surf lessons for beginners are widely offered; pick a school with good reviews and proper boards.
• Check the tide; the show is best at mid to high tide.