Datai: rainforest and Temurun falls

The north-west corner of the island, where old rainforest runs down to a sandy bay, hornbills fly overhead and a three-tiered waterfall drops beside the road.

Area

North coast & Kilim

Start from

Teluk Datai

Distance

about 30 km from Pantai Cenang

Time needed

1 day

Best season

Waterfall best September – November; forest walks best December – April

Difficulty

Moderate

Transport

Car or scooter, short forest walks

Tickets & rules

None for public areas; resort grounds are private

Why go

Datai is Langkawi’s most remote and forested corner, a bay on the north-west coast where virgin rainforest meets the sea. The drive there is part of the pleasure: the road climbs and twists through the jungle, and you may need to slow down for monkeys crossing or a monitor lizard sunbathing on the tarmac.

Along the way, Temurun waterfall falls in three tiers down a cliff just off the road. After rain it is a thundering curtain of water; in the dry season a gentle trickle over rock. A short path leads to the lower pools, where local kids swim and families picnic.

Further on, the bay itself is home to some of Malaysia’s most famous resorts, but the forest around them is protected and full of wildlife. Early morning walks in the area reveal great hornbills, flying lemurs, dusky leaf monkeys and countless birds.

The story

The forests of Datai have never been heavily logged and are among the oldest on the island. The resorts here built carefully among the trees, and some employ naturalists who lead walks for guests and occasionally for visitors.

Hornbills are a particular treasure. Langkawi has several species, including the great hornbill, which nests in tree hollows sealed with mud. The female stays inside with the chick for months, fed through a slot by the male. Losing one nesting tree can mean losing a pair for years.

Temurun waterfall is fed by streams from the forested hills behind the bay, and its flow follows the monsoon closely: in the wet months it is one of the most powerful falls on the island, in March it can almost vanish. The word turun means ‘to descend’ in Malay, a fitting echo for a stream that drops in three steps to the sea.

In the 1990s the bay was promoted as a playground for wealthy visitors, but many local guides talk about Datai with a simpler affection: it is where their grandfathers hunted and collected rattan, long before the hotels arrived.

Getting there

Datai is around 45 minutes by car from Pantai Cenang, along the coast road past Pantai Kok and Pasir Tengkorak. Temurun waterfall is on the main road toward the bay, with a small parking area.

Most of the bay is resort property. Public access to the beach is limited, so this route focuses on the road, the waterfall and nearby public viewpoints.

A suggested plan

1. Early morningDrive the jungle road slowly, watching for wildlife.
2. MorningWalk to Temurun waterfall and swim in the lower pools.
3. Late morningContinue to the Datai viewpoints and the golf area edges.
4. MiddayLunch in the area or on the way back.
5. AfternoonStop at Pasir Tengkorak for a swim before returning.

Where to stay

The Datai resorts are the obvious, very expensive choice. For most people a day trip from Pantai Cenang or Pantai Kok works well.

Good to know

• Go early for birds and cooler air.
• Bring binoculars; hornbills are often high in the canopy.
• Swim only in the lower pools at the waterfall.
• Fuel up before you set out; there are no stations on the jungle road.