Poring: hot springs, a canopy walk and Rafflesia

After a climb, or simply after a long drive, soak in sulphur baths under the trees, then walk high in the rainforest canopy and hope to find the world's largest flower in bloom.

Area

Kinabalu highlands

Start from

Ranau or Kinabalu Park

Distance

about 40 km from Kinabalu Park HQ

Time needed

1 day

Best season

All year; Rafflesia blooming is unpredictable

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Car or taxi from Ranau or Kundasang

Tickets & rules

Park entry fee; separate canopy walkway fee; fee to see Rafflesia on private land

Why go

Poring is the lowland corner of Kinabalu Park, hot, green and humid, and its sulphur springs are where tired climbers come to recover. Open-air tubs and a few pools are filled with steaming spring water that you mix with cold water to your liking. Sitting there among tree ferns after two days on the mountain feels like a reward.

Up the hill from the springs, a canopy walkway of narrow suspension bridges is strung between giant trees, about 40 metres above the ground in places. It sways, creaks and gives you a view you don't otherwise get in the rainforest: the tops of the trees, birds at eye level and the forest floor far below.

Further trails lead to waterfalls: Kipungit is a short walk, Langanan a longer, steeper hike of a few hours. And if you're lucky, a Rafflesia will be in bloom somewhere nearby; signs on the road and local farmers advertise when one opens.

The story

The hot springs were first developed during the Japanese occupation in the Second World War, when soldiers built baths here. After the war they fell into disrepair, then became part of Kinabalu Park and were rebuilt as public baths.

The Rafflesia is the world's largest single flower, a parasite with no leaves, stems or roots of its own, living inside a jungle vine. It spends many months as a bud, like a dark cabbage, and then opens for only about five to seven days. Its smell is often compared to rotting meat, to attract the flies that pollinate it. Sabah has several species, including Rafflesia keithii, named after the Keith family of Sandakan.

Rafflesias are so rare and short-lived that seeing one is a matter of luck and timing. Around Poring, some villagers protect flowers growing on their land and charge a small fee to visit. It has become a modest income that gives them a reason to protect the forest, which is part of what makes the system work.

Getting there

Poring is about 40 minutes by road from Ranau, and about an hour from Kinabalu Park HQ. There is no frequent public transport; a taxi from Ranau or an organised tour is easiest.

Many Kinabalu climb packages include a visit to Poring on the afternoon of day 2.

A suggested plan

1. 9:00 amArrive and walk up to the canopy walkway before the heat.
2. 10:30 amWalk to Kipungit Waterfall, or start the longer Langanan Waterfall hike if you're keen.
3. 12:30 pmLunch at the park café.
4. 2:00 pmLook for signs of a Rafflesia in bloom at nearby farms.
5. 3:30 pmSoak in the hot spring baths before heading back.

Where to stay

There are a few lodges and chalets near the park entrance and in Ranau. Many people stay in Kundasang and come down for the day.

Good to know

• Bring a swimsuit and a towel; there are changing rooms.
• Private tubs can be rented by the hour if the open ones are crowded.
• Ask locals or your driver to call ahead about Rafflesia blooms.