Kayaking Down the Nam Song

A day on the green river that made Vang Vieng famous: paddling between karst towers, through gentle rapids and past bamboo bridges and riverside bars.

Area

Vang Vieng river

Start from

Vang Vieng town

Distance

about 10–15 km on the river

Time needed

1 day

Best season

October – May; the river is fullest and fastest after the rains

Difficulty

Moderate

Transport

Tour truck upstream, then by kayak back to town

Tickets & rules

Cave and village entry fees; usually included in tours

Why go

If you do one thing in Vang Vieng, do this. The Nam Song is a gentle, clear green river that flows right past the town, and from the water the landscape is at its most beautiful: steep limestone towers rising from banana groves and paddy fields, buffaloes cooling in the shallows, children jumping from rocks.

Most kayak days begin upstream with a short visit to caves, then drift and paddle back down to town over a few hours. The rapids are small and friendly for beginners, especially in the dry season, and there are long calm stretches when you can just float and look up at the cliffs.

The light on the river changes all day, from morning mist to the warm gold of late afternoon, and the final stretch into Vang Vieng, past the wooden bridges and the town’s riverside, is one of the loveliest arrivals anywhere.

The story

Vang Vieng began as a small market town on the old road between Vientiane and Luang Prabang. During the conflict of the 1960s and 70s an airstrip was built here, and its long straight runway still cuts through the town, now partly used as a road and a field.

In the late 1990s and 2000s backpackers discovered the river, and the town became famous for tubing: floating downstream on tractor inner tubes past riverside bars playing loud music. It became a party destination, and there were many accidents and drownings. In 2012 the authorities closed most of the riverside bars, and the town changed.

Since then Vang Vieng has reinvented itself as an outdoor and family destination. Korean visitors began arriving in large numbers after a popular television travel show filmed here, and today you will see Korean signs, zip-lines, buggies and balloons alongside the old backpacker cafés.

The river itself remains the heart of the town. Local people still fish it with nets, wash in it, and cross it on seasonal bamboo bridges that are rebuilt after each rainy season when the floods sweep them away.

Getting there

Kayak tours are sold by agencies all over town and usually include pick-up, a guide, a life jacket, lunch and a visit to the water caves upstream. You will be driven north by truck, then paddle back to town.

Independent kayaking is possible if you rent equipment, but the guides know the river, the rapids and the safe places to stop, so a group tour is the better choice for most.

A suggested plan

1. 9:00Pick-up from your guesthouse and drive north along the river.
2. 10:00Visit Tham Nam water cave or Tham Sang elephant cave on the way.
3. 12:00Start paddling; take the small rapids carefully and stop for lunch on a riverside bank.
4. 14:00Drift through the calmer stretch below the karst cliffs, with swim stops.
5. 16:00Arrive back in Vang Vieng by the bridges in time for a cold drink at sunset.

Where to stay

Stay near the river in Vang Vieng; many guesthouses have balconies or bungalows facing the karsts, so you can watch the mist lift in the morning before your trip.

Good to know

• Keep your phone and money in a dry bag, which most tour operators provide.
• Wear sandals that strap on and sunscreen that stays put; the reflection on the water burns quickly.
• Water levels change through the year, so ask about conditions before you book.
• Book with an agency that lists insurance and gives proper life jackets.