Kuta and Mandalika: Merese hill and Tanjung Aan

Lombok’s south coast at its most dramatic: green headlands, a grassy hill for sunset and twin bays of white and peppercorn sand, all a short ride from the surf town of Kuta.

Area

South coast

Start from

Kuta Lombok

Distance

about 10 km of coast

Time needed

1 day

Best season

All year; Bau Nyale festival around February – March

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Scooter, car or bicycle

Tickets & rules

Small parking or entrance fees at beaches

Why go

Kuta Lombok is a small town on a wide bay, and it has grown from a fishing village with a few surf shacks into the main base for the south coast. Despite the name, it has little in common with Kuta in Bali. The town still feels relaxed, with cafés, surf shops and warungs on a handful of roads, and the beaches around it are among the most beautiful in Indonesia.

East of town, the road runs past the Mandalika development to Tanjung Aan, a long curving bay divided by a rocky headland into two beaches: one of fine white sand, the other of coarse round grains that people compare to peppercorns. The water is clear and calm in the sheltered parts, perfect for swimming.

Above it rises Bukit Merese, a smooth grassy hill with a view of the whole coast: bay after bay, headland after headland, surf breaking on the reefs. At sunset it fills with people, buffalo and kites, and the sky turns every shade of orange over the sea.

The story

The south coast is the setting of Lombok’s most famous legend. Princess Mandalika was so beautiful that princes from all over the island wanted to marry her. Rather than choose one and start a war, she climbed a rock above the sea, said she would belong to everyone, and threw herself into the waves. When people searched for her, they found only colourful sea worms, which they believed were her hair.

Those worms, called nyale, appear on the reefs once a year, usually in February or March, after a full moon on dates set by the Sasak calendar. The Bau Nyale festival brings thousands of people to the beaches before dawn to catch them by torchlight. They are eaten or scattered on fields for luck, and the event is accompanied by music, poetry and a re-enactment of the legend.

Seger beach, just east of Kuta, is said to be where the princess threw herself into the sea, and a statue of her stands near the shore.

The Mandalika Special Economic Zone has changed the area rapidly. A motorsport circuit was built around the coast near Kuta, hosting World Superbike races from 2021 and MotoGP from 2022. New roads, hotels and resorts have followed. Some people welcome the jobs; others mourn the old quiet. Either way, the beaches are still there, and the hills still empty out after sunset.

Getting there

Kuta is about half an hour from Lombok International Airport. Scooters are the easiest way to get around the south coast and can be rented in town. Ride-hailing apps operate in the area, but coverage on remote beaches is unreliable.

Tanjung Aan and Bukit Merese are around fifteen to twenty minutes east of Kuta by road.

A suggested plan

1. MorningSwim at Kuta beach or take a surf lesson in town.
2. Late morningVisit Seger beach and the statue of Princess Mandalika.
3. MiddayLunch, then Tanjung Aan: compare the white sand with the peppercorn sand.
4. AfternoonSwim in the sheltered part of the bay.
5. SunsetWalk up Bukit Merese for sunset over the coast.

Where to stay

Kuta is the base, with guesthouses, boutique hotels and surf camps. Places on the hills above town are quieter and have views; in-town options are walking distance from food and the beach.

Good to know

• Leave nothing in your scooter basket.
• Beach sellers can be persistent; a firm no is fine.
• Bring water and snacks; services at some beaches are limited.
• Ask about the Bau Nyale date if you are visiting in February or March.