Kratie and the Mekong Dolphins

A sleepy riverside town on the Mekong, where rare freshwater dolphins surface in quiet pools and sunsets turn the river to gold.

Area

Further afield

Start from

Phnom Penh

Distance

about 230–250 km north-east

Time needed

2–3 days

Best season

December – May, when river levels are lower and dolphins easier to see

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Bus or minibus (around 5–7 hours), or a private car

Tickets & rules

Boat fee at the dolphin pool (around 10 USD per person, check current price)

Why go

Kratie is one of those places that slows you down. It is a small river town with French-era shophouses, a long riverfront and a market, and in the evening everyone comes out to watch the sun set over the Mekong. Nearly everyone comes here for one reason, though: the Irrawaddy dolphins.

About fifteen kilometres north of town, at the village of Kampi, small boats take you out into a deep pool in the river where the dolphins gather. They are shy, round-headed animals with no beak, and they surface quietly with a soft puff of breath, then disappear again. The boatmen turn off their engines and paddle, and you wait, listening to the water.

Beyond the dolphins, Kratie is a wonderful base for slow travel: cycle around the island of Koh Trong opposite the town, visit riverside pagodas and simply watch the river.

The story

The Irrawaddy dolphin lives in coastal waters and in a few great rivers of Southeast Asia, including the Mekong. The Mekong population is critically endangered, numbering only around a hundred in recent counts, living mostly in deep pools between Kratie and the Lao border.

Over the past decades, conservation groups and the Cambodian government have worked to protect them by restricting gill nets in their pools and involving local fishing communities, with some signs of hope in recent surveys. Watching them is a privilege, and the rules on boats are designed to avoid disturbing them.

Koh Trong, the island opposite Kratie, is a flat sandy island with a village, pomelo orchards and a ring road you can cycle in an afternoon. There is a floating village of fishing families along its shore and a small pagoda.

The town itself grew up as a trading post on the Mekong, and its old shophouses and riverfront recall the days when the river was the main road between Phnom Penh and the north.

Getting there

Buses and minibuses leave Phnom Penh for Kratie every day and take around five to seven hours, depending on the route and road conditions. A private car is faster and more comfortable. From Kratie, take a tuk-tuk or rent a motorbike or bicycle to Kampi.

In town, small ferries cross to Koh Trong, and bicycles can be rented on the island or in town.

A suggested plan

1. Day 1Travel from Phnom Penh to Kratie; watch the sunset from the riverfront.
2. Day 2 morningEarly ride to Kampi; take a boat to see the dolphins in the soft morning light.
3. Day 2 afternoonVisit riverside pagodas north of town; rest in the heat.
4. Day 3Cross to Koh Trong and cycle the island, then return to Phnom Penh or continue north.

Where to stay

Stay in one of the guesthouses on the riverfront in Kratie, where you can watch the sunset from the balcony. There are also homestays on Koh Trong.

Good to know

• Early morning and late afternoon are the best times for dolphin watching.
• Bring binoculars and patience; dolphins surface for a second.
• Try the local fruit, especially pomelos in season.
• The road can be long; take snacks and water.