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Long Son pagoda, the white Buddha and the Stone Church

A climb past dragons and incense to a great white Buddha above the city, followed by a quiet hour in a grey stone cathedral built by the French in the 1930s.

Long Son pagoda, the white Buddha and the Stone Church
Photo: Vinhtantran · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Area
Nha Trang town
Start from
Central Nha Trang
Distance
about 2–3 km across town
Time needed
half a day
Best season
All year; mornings are cooler
Difficulty
Easy
Transport
On foot, taxi or ride-hailing
Tickets & rules
Free entry; modest dress at both the pagoda and the cathedral

Why go

Long Son is the best-known Buddhist pagoda in Nha Trang, and it feels lived-in rather than staged. Monks move between the halls, families bring offerings of fruit and flowers, and the roof ridges curl with dragons made of broken porcelain. Behind the main hall a long stairway climbs Trai Thuy hill, passing a huge reclining Buddha on the way up.

At the top sits a white seated Buddha on a lotus, visible from much of the city. The view back over the rooftops to the bay and the mountains is the reason many people make the climb, and on a clear morning you can trace the whole curve of the coast from Hon Chong to the port.

A short walk away, the Christ the King Cathedral, known locally as the Stone Church, rises on a small rocky mound above a busy junction. It is a sober, grey building of cut stone in a simplified Gothic style, with stained glass and a cool, quiet interior. Seeing the pagoda and the church in one morning tells you something about how many layers this city has.

The story

Long Son pagoda was founded in the late nineteenth century and moved to its present site after a storm damaged the original building around the turn of the twentieth century. It has been rebuilt and extended several times since, which is why the halls mix older timber details with mid-century concrete and bright mosaic work.

The white Buddha on the hilltop was built in the 1960s and has become one of the symbols of Nha Trang. Count the steps on the way up if you like; there are roughly a hundred and fifty, broken by landings where you can rest and look down at the tiled roofs. On full-moon days and at Tết the pagoda fills with worshippers and the stairs are lined with incense.

The Stone Church was built by the French between 1928 and 1933 on a granite outcrop that had to be partly levelled for the foundations. The bells were brought from France, and the walls around the base hold small niches and plaques left by local Catholic families in memory of relatives. Mass is still held several times a day, and the bells mark the hours across the neighbourhood.

Both buildings sit near the old railway line, and the Nha Trang station, a short walk away, is still a stop on the long north–south line between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Photo: Baoothersks · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Getting there

Long Son is on 23 Tháng 10 street, west of the centre; the cathedral is about a kilometre east, on Thái Nguyên street near the station. Walking between them is easy if it isn’t too hot, otherwise a short ride-hailing trip.

Dam market, the city’s big covered market, is another short ride north-east if you want to continue.

A suggested plan

  1. 7:30Arrive at Long Son while it’s cool and quiet; visit the main hall.
  2. 8:00Climb past the reclining Buddha to the white Buddha and the viewpoint.
  3. 9:00Walk or ride to the Stone Church; sit inside for a few minutes if it’s open.
  4. 10:00Coffee near the station, then on to Dam market for fruit and snacks.
  5. MiddayRetreat from the heat: lunch and a rest before the afternoon.

Where to stay

Any central hotel works for this route. The streets around the station and the cathedral are full of small, older family hotels that are cheaper and quieter than the beachfront.

Good to know

  • Cover shoulders and knees for both buildings.
  • The cathedral is sometimes closed between services; the grounds are usually open, and Sunday mornings are the liveliest.
  • Leave a small donation at the pagoda if you like, in the official box.
  • Bring water for the climb; there is little shade on the upper stairs.
Watch out
  • Long Son has long been known for people who attach themselves as unofficial ‘guides’ or sell incense and then demand money. A polite, firm no is enough.
  • Watch for motorbikes at the busy junction below the cathedral when crossing.

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