Ly Son: a volcanic island of garlic and cliffs

An overnight adventure to a little volcanic island off Quang Ngai, with crater views, cliffs of black rock, emerald coves and fields of garlic grown in coral sand.

Area

Islands

Start from

Hoi An or Da Nang

Distance

about 140 km to Sa Ky port, then 30 km by sea

Time needed

2–3 days

Best season

March – August

Difficulty

Moderate

Transport

Car or bus to Sa Ky port, then speedboat

Tickets & rules

Passport needed for the boat ticket; ferry tickets bought in advance in busy months

Why go

Ly Son is the kind of place I go when I want to feel far away without much effort. It sits in the sea off Quang Ngai province, south of Hoi An, and few foreign visitors make the trip. The island is small enough to circle on a scooter in an afternoon, but full of strange landscapes: old volcanic craters, cliffs of folded black lava and coves of turquoise water.

The main island, Big Island, has the craters and villages. A short boat ride brings you to Small Island, Dao Be, which has a beach of white sand and coral pebbles and some of the clearest water on the central coast. Snorkelling there feels like swimming in a postcard.

Then there is the garlic. Ly Son is famous across Vietnam for its small, pungent bulbs grown in fields of sand and volcanic soil. In the growing season the island is covered in low green rows, and every market sells braids of it. It’s an unexpectedly charming detail.

The story

Ly Son was formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, and the craters of Thoi Loi and Gieng Tien still shape the skyline. From the top of Thoi Loi you see the whole island, the sea in every direction and, on clear days, the mainland coast.

The islanders have a long seafaring history. For centuries, fishermen from Ly Son sailed far out into the East Sea, and the island preserves temples and rituals connected to that dangerous life. A traditional ceremony honours sailors who went to sea and never returned; families still make small boats and figures in their memory.

The Hang pagoda, Chua Hang, is built into a cave at the foot of a cliff, facing the sea. It is quiet, cool and atmospheric, especially in the early morning. Nearby, To Vo arch is a natural rock gate on the shore, famous for sunsets.

Garlic farming here is backbreaking. Farmers carry white sand from the beaches and spread it over the fields to keep moisture in, layer upon layer, over generations. The resulting garlic is prized and sold across the country, often at premium prices.

Getting there

From Hoi An, drive or take a bus south along the highway to Quang Ngai and then to Sa Ky port, about 3 hours. Speedboats from Sa Ky take roughly 30–60 minutes depending on the boat and sea. Bring your passport to buy tickets.

On the island, rent a scooter or hire a driver. A small boat runs between Big Island and Small Island several times a day.

A suggested plan

1. Day 1Travel from Hoi An to Sa Ky, boat to Ly Son, afternoon at To Vo arch for sunset.
2. Day 2 morningClimb Thoi Loi crater and visit the Hang pagoda.
3. Day 2 afternoonBoat to Small Island for snorkelling and the white beach.
4. Day 3A slow morning in the market and garlic fields, then the boat back.

Where to stay

Stay in a guesthouse or small hotel near the harbour on Big Island; a few homestays on Small Island offer basic rooms for a quieter night. Book ahead on summer weekends, when domestic tourists fill the island.

Good to know

• Buy return boat tickets as soon as you arrive in busy months.
• Garlic and dried squid make good souvenirs.
• Cash is essential; ATMs exist but can run out.
• Bring snorkel gear if you have it.