The birds of Prek Toal

Glide at dawn into a flooded forest where pelicans, storks and adjutants nest by the thousand, in one of the most important bird colonies in Southeast Asia.

Area

Lake & countryside

Start from

Siem Reap town

Distance

about 30 km from town by road and boat

Time needed

1 day

Best season

December – April, especially January – March

Difficulty

Moderate

Transport

Tuk-tuk or car to the port, then boat

Tickets & rules

Entrance and boat fees; best arranged through a licensed eco-tourism operator

Why go

This was one of the great surprises of my trip. I am not a birdwatcher, but sitting on a wooden platform high in a tree at Prek Toal, watching spot-billed pelicans soar over a sea of submerged forest, I understood the fascination.

The journey begins before dawn, with a boat ride across the open lake as the sun rises. Then you enter the floating village of Prek Toal and, beyond, the core area of the reserve, where the trees are dotted with nesting birds: storks, cormorants, herons and the rare greater adjutant.

It is a long day, and it requires early rising and some patience. But the reward is a rare glimpse of the Tonle Sap as it must once have looked everywhere.

The story

Prek Toal lies within the Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve, recognised by UNESCO. Its flooded forest is home to the largest breeding colonies of several large waterbirds in Southeast Asia.

In the 1990s, many of these species were collected for food and eggs. Conservation groups began working with local people, hiring former egg collectors as rangers, and the numbers of birds have recovered remarkably. It is a heartening story.

The village of Prek Toal itself floats on the water, with houses, shops and schools on rafts. Families move with the water level, and much of daily life happens on boats.

The star of the reserve for many visitors is the greater adjutant, a huge, slightly prehistoric-looking stork with a bald head and a pink throat pouch, which is globally endangered. Spot-billed pelicans and painted storks nest in noisy colonies, building untidy platforms of sticks in the crowns of half-submerged trees, and from the ranger platforms you can watch parents ferry fish back to their chicks for as long as your patience lasts.

Getting there

Tours usually start early, around six, with a drive to the port at Chong Kneas and a boat ride of an hour or more across the lake to Prek Toal. There, you transfer to smaller boats to enter the core area.

It is best to go with an organisation that works with the local community; ask at your guesthouse for recommendations.

A suggested plan

1. 5:30Pick-up in town and drive to the port.
2. 6:30Boat across the lake at sunrise.
3. 8:00Arrive at Prek Toal and transfer to smaller boats.
4. 9:00 – 11:00Birdwatching from platforms in the core area.
5. 12:00Lunch in the floating village.
6. 14:00Return across the lake to town.

Where to stay

Stay in town. There are a few homestays in the floating village for those who want to spend the night.

Good to know

• Bring binoculars and a long lens.
• Wear a hat and sunscreen; there is little shade on the boat.
• January to March is peak breeding season.
• Carry snacks and water.