Con Dao: quiet islands, turtles and a heavy history

A wild archipelago of empty beaches, forested hills and nesting sea turtles, with a past as a prison island that is told with sobering calm.

Area

Coast & islands

Start from

District 1

Distance

about 230 km south-east, by air

Time needed

3–4 days

Best season

March to September is calmest; turtle nesting peaks around May–October

Difficulty

Easy to Moderate

Transport

Flight from Tan Son Nhat, or ferry from the mainland

Tickets & rules

Tickets for the prison sites; national park fees and permits for some islands and turtle tours

Why go

Con Dao is one of the most beautiful and least crowded places in Vietnam. Sixteen islands lie in the sea south of the delta, most of them protected as a national park, with coral reefs, clear water, mountain forests and long beaches where green turtles come to lay their eggs.

Con Son, the main island, has a small, sleepy town of yellow colonial buildings, a seaside promenade lined with almond trees and very little traffic. Rent a motorbike and you can ride the coastal road to bays where you will be the only person on the sand.

Con Dao also carries a heavy history, and visiting the old prison sites is part of understanding the islands. Combined with the natural beauty, it makes for a thoughtful, unforgettable trip.

The story

The French established a prison on Con Son in 1861, and for more than a century the islands were known as a place of exile for political prisoners. Many of Vietnam’s later leaders spent years here. The prison compounds, including the notorious tiger cages, are now museums, presented in a sober way.

Hang Duong cemetery holds the graves of many who died on the islands. One of the most visited is that of Vo Thi Sau, a young woman executed in 1952, who is venerated as a heroine. Pilgrims come at night to pray at her grave, bringing offerings and flowers.

Con Dao National Park protects large areas of forest and sea. Green and hawksbill turtles nest on the beaches of smaller islands such as Bay Canh, and the park runs a conservation programme where visitors can sometimes join rangers to watch nesting and hatchlings, with permission and following strict rules.

Despite tourism, Con Dao remains quiet, partly because getting there is more difficult and expensive than other islands. Most visitors leave with a sense of having found a rare, unspoilt corner of Vietnam.

Getting there

Flights from Saigon’s Tan Son Nhat airport to Con Dao take about an hour. Ferries run from the mainland, including from Vung Tau and Soc Trang, but schedules depend on the season and the weather; check before you plan. On the island, rent a motorbike or bicycle, or hire a car.

A suggested plan

1. Day 1Fly in; settle in Con Son town and walk the seafront at sunset.
2. Day 2Visit the prison museums and Hang Duong cemetery.
3. Day 3Boat trip to snorkel or dive and visit smaller islands.
4. Day 4Ride to quiet beaches such as Dam Trau, near the airport, and relax.
5. OptionalJoin a ranger-led turtle-watching trip in season.

Where to stay

Con Son town has guesthouses and small hotels within walking distance of the seafront. A few resorts on secluded bays offer more luxury.

Good to know

• Book flights early; seats are limited and fill up at weekends and holidays.
• Bring cash; there are few ATMs.
• Turtle tours require advance arrangements with the national park.
• Dress respectfully at the prison sites and cemetery.