Lake Balkhash: half fresh, half salt

One of the largest lakes in Asia, with fresh water in the west and salty water in the east, and long empty beaches.

Region

North & Centre

Start from

Karaganda or Almaty

Distance

about 380 km from Karaganda

Time needed

2–3 days

Best season

June – September

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Train or car to Balkhash town

Permits

None

Why go

Lake Balkhash stretches for more than 600 kilometres across the steppe. A narrow strait divides it into two parts with very different water: the western half, fed by the Ili river, is nearly fresh, while the eastern half is salty. It's one of those geography facts that's even better in person.

The town of Balkhash on the northern shore is an industrial copper-smelting town, but a few kilometres away the lake is wide, quiet and surprisingly blue, with rocky coves and sandy beaches.

It's a good place to experience the scale of the Kazakh steppe: hours of flat land, then suddenly a sea.

The story

A local legend tells of a rich man named Balkhash and his beautiful daughter, whose suitor and she were separated by an angry father and turned into rivers flowing towards each other but never meeting, while Balkhash himself became the lake. Versions differ, but the story of rivers and lovers is told all over the region.

The real reason for the lake's two kinds of water is geography: the Ili river brings fresh water into the western part, while the eastern part, connected only by a narrow strait, loses water mostly through evaporation and becomes salty.

In the twentieth century the lake suffered from water extraction for irrigation and industry, and its future is a frequent topic in the news. Seeing how much life still depends on it makes you understand why.

Getting there

Trains run to Balkhash from Karaganda and Astana; the road from Karaganda is long but good. From Almaty it's a full day's drive.

Local taxis can take you to beaches outside town; the bays to the west are calmer.

A suggested plan

1. Day 1Arrive in Balkhash, walk the town embankment in the evening.
2. Day 2Beach day at a cove outside town. Try fried fish from the lake at a local café.
3. Day 3Return, or continue south towards Almaty if you have a car.

Where to stay

Hotels and guesthouses in Balkhash town; summer camps along the shore.

Good to know

• Fresh lake fish (zander, carp) is the local speciality.
• Bring a windbreaker: the steppe wind rarely stops.
• Shade is rare on beaches; take an umbrella.