Pak Khlong Talat: the flower market at night

Mountains of marigolds, orchids and roses, and women threading jasmine garlands until dawn.

Area

Markets

Start from

Old town

Distance

near the Memorial Bridge

Time needed

1–2 hours

Best season

All year; best after dark

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

MRT Sanam Chai, boat to Yodpiman pier

Tickets & rules

None

Why go

Bangkok's main flower market works around the clock but is most alive late at night, when trucks arrive from the provinces and sellers sort huge piles of flowers under bare bulbs.

Watch people make phuang malai, the intricate jasmine and rose garlands offered at shrines. The colours and scents make it one of the most photogenic places in the city.

During the day, the market sells vegetables, fruit and herbs, and the riverside Yodpiman building has been restored with cafés and shops. But the best time is at night, when the flower trade peaks and the atmosphere is calm, busy and focused.

The story

The market began as a fish market in the nineteenth century and gradually became a flower and vegetable market.

Flowers play a big role in Thai daily life, from offerings at shrines to decorations at weddings and funerals, which is why the market never sleeps.

Phuang malai garlands are a craft in their own right. Skilled makers thread jasmine buds, rose petals and marigolds into patterns, and the finished garlands are offered at shrines, given to honoured guests or hung in taxis for luck.

The nearby Memorial Bridge, opened in 1932, was the first bridge across the Chao Phraya in Bangkok and marked the 150th anniversary of the city.

Getting there

Walk from MRT Sanam Chai station, or arrive by river at Yodpiman pier.

Combine with dinner in Chinatown and a late walk.

A suggested plan

1. EveningDinner in the old town or Chinatown.
2. NightWalk through the market lanes; buy a small garland for a shrine.
3. LateReturn via the riverside Yodpiman building.
4. OptionalCross the Memorial Bridge on foot for a view of the old town and the river at night.

Where to stay

Old town or Chinatown hotels are a short walk or taxi away.

Good to know

• The market is a wholesale business; give way to porters.
• Flowers are very cheap; buy some for your room.
• Morning visits are good for fresh vegetables and photos of the produce.