Balik Pulau: durian orchards, rice fields and fishing villages
The quiet back side of the island, with winding hill roads, orchards of durian and nutmeg, green paddy fields and fishing villages that time forgot.
- Area
- Island coast & countryside
- Start from
- George Town
- Distance
- about 25 km, a loop around the island
- Time needed
- 1 day
- Best season
- All year; durian season roughly June–August, rice fields greenest after planting
- Difficulty
- Easy
- Transport
- Rented scooter, car or Grab; local buses are slow
- Tickets & rules
- None
Why go
I spent one of my favourite Penang days here with no plan at all, pulling over whenever something caught my eye: an old Hakka woman drying nutmeg on a tray by the road, a tiny Taoist shrine in a durian grove, a line of egrets standing in a flooded paddy. Bring patience and an appetite, and let the back of the island set the pace.
Balik Pulau means ‘back of the island’, and that’s exactly how it feels. The road from George Town climbs over the hills on hairpin bends, through orchards and forest, and descends to a gentle land of small towns, rice paddies and sea.
The pace is slower. Old shophouses line the main street, coffee shops serve Balik Pulau laksa, and fruit stalls sell nutmeg, rambutans and, in season, durian.
Stop at the small fishing villages on the coast, where boats lie on the mud at low tide and the sunsets are long and golden.
The story
For much of its history Balik Pulau was a separate world, linked to George Town only by rough roads over the hills. Its people farmed rice, spices and fruit, and fished the west coast.
In the 19th century, spice plantations spread across these hills, and nutmeg and clove made fortunes for planters. Today, small family orchards still grow nutmeg, and its products are sold in local shops.
Durian growers here are famous across Malaysia. Some trees are many decades old, and each orchard has its own named varieties. During the season, orchards open their gates to visitors who sit at long tables tasting.
The Hakka and Hokkien villages, the Malay kampongs and the Catholic church in Balik Pulau town tell a story of mixed communities who lived together for generations.
Getting there
The most scenic route crosses the hills via Air Itam and the winding road to Balik Pulau. Renting a car or scooter is easiest; Grab works for the outward journey, but finding one back can be harder.
Continue round the island via Teluk Bahang to make a loop back to George Town.
A suggested plan
- 9:00Leave George Town and cross the hills.
- 10:00Stop at an orchard or fruit stall.
- 11:30Explore Balik Pulau town and its laksa.
- 1:00 pmWalk the paddy fields and visit a fishing village.
- 5:00 pmWatch the sunset on the west coast before driving back.
Where to stay
A few homestays and farm stays in the area give a peaceful night; otherwise return to George Town.
Good to know
- Rent a car if you’re not confident on hairpin roads.
- Carry cash for fruit stalls.
- Ask before entering orchards.
- Leave time for unplanned stops.
- Hill roads are narrow and winding, with fast local drivers.
- Durian falling from trees can be dangerous; orchards use nets for a reason.