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Island hopping: the lake of the pregnant maiden

A speedboat circuit of the southern islands: a freshwater lake hidden behind a limestone ridge, eagles over the cliffs and a sandbank beach for a swim.

Island hopping: the lake of the pregnant maiden
Photo: Mohd Khairul Hakimi Abdul Wahab · CC BY 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Area
Islands & the sea
Start from
Pantai Cenang or Kuah
Distance
about 40 km by boat round trip
Time needed
half a day
Best season
November – April for calm seas
Difficulty
Easy
Transport
Speedboat
Tickets & rules
Tour fee; small park fees possible

Why go

The classic Langkawi island-hopping tour visits three places in about four hours, and despite being popular it is genuinely good. Speedboats leave from Pantai Cenang and race across turquoise water toward the cluster of limestone islands south of Langkawi.

The first stop is usually Pulau Dayang Bunting, the second-largest island in the archipelago. A short walk up and over a ridge brings you to Tasik Dayang Bunting, a freshwater lake enclosed by forested cliffs, where you can swim, float or rent a pedal boat.

Then the boat heads to the waters off Pulau Singa Besar, where eagles are often fed, and finally to Pulau Beras Basah, a small island with white sand and clear water. It is a whirlwind, but the colours and the sense of space linger long after.

The story

Dayang Bunting means ‘pregnant maiden’, and the island’s outline, seen from the right angle, is said to resemble a woman lying on her back. In one legend a princess named Mahsura bathed in the lake, drank its water and became pregnant. Her child died at birth, and she laid it to rest in the lake before returning to her home in the sky.

Because of this, the lake is linked with fertility, and childless couples have come here to bathe in the hope of conceiving. Some visitors still swim with that wish quietly in mind.

Geologically, the lake is a limestone basin separated from the sea by a thin ridge, and its water is fresh despite being so close to the ocean. It is home to catfish and other freshwater fish, and the edges are fringed with forest.

Pulau Beras Basah, ‘wet rice island’, takes its name from a story of a ship carrying rice that ran aground nearby, soaking its cargo. The sailors are said to have spread the rice out to dry on the beach.

Photo: Hendrojkson · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Getting there

Tours can be booked through agencies and hotels in Pantai Cenang, Kuah or directly at the beach. Most include hotel transfers and life jackets.

Morning tours are usually calmer and less crowded than afternoon ones. Private boats are possible for a higher price and allow you to set your own pace.

A suggested plan

  1. MorningPick-up and boat departure from Pantai Cenang or Kuah.
  2. First stopWalk to Tasik Dayang Bunting and swim in the lake.
  3. Second stopWatch eagles near Pulau Singa Besar.
  4. Third stopSwim and relax on Pulau Beras Basah.
  5. Early afternoonReturn to the mainland in time for lunch.

Where to stay

Pantai Cenang is the best base, as most boats depart from the beach. Kuah also works.

Good to know

  • Bring swimwear, towel and water shoes.
  • Go in the morning for calmer seas.
  • Bring cash for snacks and pedal boats.
  • Wear sunscreen and a hat; there is little shade on the boat.
Watch out
  • Monkeys at the lake are bold; keep bags zipped.
  • Rough seas in the monsoon can make the boat ride uncomfortable.
  • Life jackets should be worn in open water.

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