Sipadan: diving the wall
A tiny forested island on top of a seamount, where the reef wall drops hundreds of metres into the blue and turtles, barracuda and reef sharks gather in astonishing numbers.
- Area
- Semporna & the reefs
- Start from
- Semporna, Mabul or Kapalai
- Distance
- about 35 km from Semporna by boat
- Time needed
- 1 day (within a 3–5 day trip)
- Best season
- All year; often calmest April – August
- Difficulty
- Moderate
- Transport
- Flight to Tawau, road to Semporna, then dive boat
- Tickets & rules
- Sipadan daily permit, limited in number and allocated through dive operators; book well ahead
Why go
Sipadan is one of the most famous dive sites in the world, and for once the reputation is earned. The island is small, only a short walk around, but it sits on a volcanic pinnacle rising from deep water, and just a few metres from the beach, the reef drops away into the blue.
Diving here is overwhelming. Green and hawksbill turtles rest on ledges or swim past in pairs. At Barracuda Point, huge spiralling schools of chevron barracuda and jacks can circle around you. Whitetip and grey reef sharks patrol the wall, bumphead parrotfish move in herds, and the coral and reef fish are rich and vivid. Snorkelling along the drop-off is also spectacular.
Because the number of daily permits is strictly limited, getting one takes planning, but even one day here is enough to understand why divers talk about it for the rest of their lives.
The story
Sipadan became famous after Jacques Cousteau visited in the late 1980s and described it as an untouched piece of art. Dive resorts were built on the island in the 1990s, but concerns over damage and overcrowding led the government to remove them in 2004. Today no one stays on Sipadan; divers come by boat from nearby islands and leave in the afternoon.
The island's sovereignty was disputed by Malaysia and Indonesia for years, until the International Court of Justice ruled in Malaysia's favour in 2002, mainly on the basis of effective administration, including lighthouse maintenance and turtle egg collection rules from the colonial era.
Under the island lies a cave known as the Turtle Tomb, where the skeletons of turtles that got lost and drowned lie in the dark. It's only for experienced cave divers with a guide, but its existence gives Sipadan a slightly eerie edge.
Getting there
Fly from KK or KL to Tawau, then drive about 1.5 hours to Semporna. From there, boats run to resorts on Mabul and Kapalai, and dive boats run to Sipadan from Semporna and the nearby islands.
Most divers book a package including accommodation, diving and a Sipadan permit allocation. Plan months ahead in high season.
A suggested plan
- BeforeDo a couple of check-out dives on nearby reefs around Mabul or Kapalai.
- 6:30 amBoat to Sipadan, register at the ranger station.
- MorningFirst dive at Barracuda Point, then the Drop-off.
- Surface timeRest on the boat or at the designated area with shade.
- AfternoonTwo more dives at sites like Turtle Cavern or Hanging Gardens, then back to base.
Where to stay
Stay on Mabul or Kapalai for the full island-resort experience, or in Semporna for cheaper options and more choices of dive shops.
Good to know
- Bring your certification card and logbook.
- Advanced certification and experience with currents are a big plus.
- Book the permit allocation together with your dive package.
- A reef hook is useful at some sites.
- Currents can be strong and downcurrents occur; stay close to your guide.
- Don't touch turtles or coral.
- Follow official security guidance for Sabah's east coast; rules on night boat travel may apply.