The Quieter Lagoons, 2 and 3

Further down the dusty western road, two more lagoons in the karsts, quieter and more rustic, with swings, zip-lines and long lazy afternoons in the shade.

Area

Karsts & caves

Start from

Vang Vieng town

Distance

about 13–15 km west

Time needed

1 day

Best season

November – May

Difficulty

Moderate

Transport

Motorbike, mountain bike, buggy tour or tuk-tuk

Tickets & rules

Small entry fees at each lagoon

Why go

Once the first Blue Lagoon became crowded, villages further west developed their own swimming spots, and these are now my favourite. They are smaller, less polished and much quieter, especially on weekdays, and the ride there is half the fun.

Blue Lagoon 3 is the one I return to: a clear green-blue pool under the cliffs, with bamboo platforms, rope swings and shady huts where you can spend a whole afternoon swimming, reading and dozing. There is often a zip-line over the water and simple food stalls nearby.

Blue Lagoon 2 is a short detour on the way, a calmer spot that changes a lot with the seasons. Combining both makes a relaxed full day in the countryside, with the karsts always towering above.

The story

The names are an invention of tourism, but the lagoons themselves are ancient. Each is a spring or stream emerging from the limestone, part of an underground network of channels and caves that runs beneath the valley. Their colours vary through the year, from milky blue in the dry season to green after the rains.

The development of the lagoons is a good example of how villages in the valley have responded to tourism. Families from nearby villages built huts, swings and food stalls and began charging small fees, giving them an income from visitors that complements rice farming.

The road west passes through several villages and fields of rice, corn and cassava, and you may see villagers drying chillies or rice by the roadside. In the late afternoon, children ride home from school on bicycles, often three to a bike.

There are many caves in the cliffs around the lagoons, some of which can be visited with local guides. One of the joys of this area is simply asking at a lagoon what else is nearby and following a local teenager up a forest track to a cave or viewpoint.

Getting there

Ride west from Vang Vieng past Blue Lagoon 1 and continue along the road for another 6–8 km. Signs to Blue Lagoon 2 and 3 are posted along the way.

The road is rough and dusty in the dry season and muddy in the wet; a motorbike or a mountain bike with good tyres is best. Buggy tours also come here.

A suggested plan

1. 8:00Leave Vang Vieng and ride west through the villages.
2. 9:00Stop briefly at Blue Lagoon 2 for a swim or a look.
3. 10:00Continue to Blue Lagoon 3 and claim a hut in the shade.
4. 12:30Lunch from the food stalls, then swim, swing and rest.
5. 15:30Ride back slowly, stopping for sunset views over the paddies.

Where to stay

Base yourself in Vang Vieng; some simple bungalows and homestays exist further west, but most visitors return to town.

Good to know

• Fuel up the motorbike before leaving town.
• Bring cash for entry fees, snacks and drinks.
• Sunscreen and a hat are essential on the open road.
• Weekdays are much quieter than weekends and Lao holidays.