Practical tips: Southern Laos

What I wish I'd known before my first trip.

Entry and visas

Many nationalities can get a Lao visa on arrival at Pakse airport and at the main land borders, or apply in advance for an eVisa, which is accepted at a growing list of crossings. Rules and fees change, so check the official Lao immigration information before you travel. The Vang Tao – Chong Mek crossing to Thailand lies about 45 km west of Pakse, and the Nong Nok Khiene crossing to Cambodia lies south of the 4000 Islands.

Money

The currency is the Lao kip, and exchange rates have moved a great deal in recent years, so check a current rate. ATMs are easy to find in Pakse but scarce or unreliable on the plateau and the islands, and fees per withdrawal can be high. Carry enough cash for Paksong, Tad Lo, Champasak and Si Phan Don. Thai baht and US dollars are sometimes accepted, at poorer rates. Cards work only in larger hotels.

Getting around

Pakse is the hub: buses and minibuses leave from separate northern and southern bus stations for Salavan, Paksong, Champasak and the 4000 Islands. Tour desks sell convenient minibus and boat combinations. Motorbikes are the most flexible way to explore the Bolaven Plateau, while bicycles are perfect in Champasak and on the islands. Tuk-tuks fill the gaps; agree fares before you set off.

Seasons

The cool, dry season from November to February is the most comfortable time, with clear skies and fresh nights on the plateau. March to May is hot, sometimes above 35°C in the lowlands, and the river is low. The rainy season, roughly June to October, brings green landscapes and thundering waterfalls, but also slippery roads, leeches and rising water on the islands.

Health

Drink bottled or filtered water. Mosquito-borne diseases, including dengue, occur in Laos, so use repellent, especially at dusk. Medical facilities are basic outside Pakse; for anything serious, people are often taken to hospitals across the border in Thailand. Make sure your travel insurance covers medical evacuation and any motorbike riding you plan to do. Carry a small first-aid kit for scrapes on the road.

Unexploded ordnance

Parts of southern Laos, especially the Bolaven Plateau and the eastern provinces, still contain unexploded ordnance from the wars of the twentieth century. Clearance continues, but the risk remains in fields and forests. Stay on roads and well-used paths, walk with local guides in rural areas, and never touch or pick up metal objects, however old and harmless they look.

Etiquette

Dress modestly in temples and villages, covering shoulders and knees. Remove your shoes before entering homes and temple halls. Women should not touch monks or hand things to them directly. Do not touch people’s heads or point your feet at people or Buddha images. Public displays of affection and raised voices are frowned upon. A smile and a polite sabaidee go a long way.

Safety and scams

Southern Laos is generally relaxed and safe. The main risks are on the road: motorbike accidents, poor lighting at night and loose gravel. Rental shops sometimes claim damage that was already there, so photograph the bike before you leave. Agree prices with drivers and boatmen in advance, keep valuables secure on the islands, and do not leave belongings unattended on beaches or in hammocks.

Connectivity

Local SIM cards are cheap and available in Pakse with a passport; data coverage is good in towns and along main roads, patchy in valleys and on remote parts of the islands. Many guesthouses offer Wi-Fi, though speeds vary and power cuts happen in storms. Download offline maps before setting out on the Bolaven loop or cycling Don Khong.

Food and drink

Southern Lao food centres on sticky rice, fish, herbs and chilli: laap, grilled fish, papaya salad, khao piak sen noodle soup and baguette sandwiches from the French era. Bolaven coffee is everywhere, often strong and sweet. Vegetarian options are limited outside tourist places, but most cooks will make fried rice or stir-fried vegetables on request. Ask for food not spicy if needed.