The Cu Chi tunnels

Crawl through a section of a vast tunnel network dug by hand under the forests north-west of Saigon, and see how people lived underground for years.

Area

Day trips

Start from

District 1

Distance

about 60–70 km north-west

Time needed

half a day to 1 day

Best season

All year; dry season December–April is easiest

Difficulty

Moderate

Transport

Tour bus, private car or a boat along the Saigon River

Tickets & rules

Entry ticket; extra charges for optional activities

Why go

The Cu Chi tunnels are one of the most visited places in southern Vietnam, and they deserve their reputation. Guides lead you through shady forest, showing hidden trapdoors, air vents disguised as termite mounds, underground kitchens whose smoke was dispersed through long channels, and rooms where people slept, worked, treated the wounded and planned.

The highlight is crawling through a section of tunnel yourself. The passages open to visitors have been widened for larger bodies, yet even so they are hot, dark and tight. After a few dozen metres you understand, in your body, something about the lives of the people who spent years here.

The visit is less about the battles than about human endurance and ingenuity, told calmly and clearly.

The story

The first tunnels in this area were dug in the late 1940s, during the war against French rule. In the 1960s the network expanded enormously, eventually reaching around 250 kilometres, with several levels connected by narrow shafts. The soil here is laterite clay, which hardens on contact with air, so the tunnels could be dug with simple tools and still hold firm.

Life underground was extremely hard. People faced heat, lack of air, insects, snakes, disease and frequent bombing above. Food was scarce, and cassava, now served to visitors with sesame and salt, was a staple.

There are two main sites. Ben Dinh, closer to the city, is the most visited. Ben Duoc, further north, is larger, with a memorial temple, and generally quieter. Both show reconstructed living areas, displays of traps and short documentaries.

Many visitors come out of the tunnels moved and thoughtful. Today the area around Cu Chi is mostly farmland and rubber plantations, and life has moved on, though memories remain strong in local families.

Getting there

Most people visit on a half-day tour from District 1, about one and a half to two hours each way by road, depending on traffic. A private car with a driver allows you to choose Ben Duoc and travel at your own pace. Speedboat tours along the Saigon River are a more scenic, pricier option.

Public buses go to Cu Chi town, but connections to the tunnels are complicated; a tour or car is much easier.

A suggested plan

1. 7:00Leave early to beat the heat and crowds.
2. 9:00Arrive, watch the introductory film and walk the forest trail with a guide.
3. 10:00Crawl through a tunnel section; there are exits every few metres if needed.
4. 11:00Taste cassava and tea in the reconstructed camp.
5. AfternoonReturn to the city, or combine with Tay Ninh for a long day.

Where to stay

Visit from Saigon; there is no need to stay overnight in Cu Chi.

Good to know

• Wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty.
• Bring insect repellent and water.
• Ben Duoc is usually quieter than Ben Dinh.
• If you are claustrophobic, you can skip the tunnels and still enjoy the site.