Wat Umong: Tunnels in the Forest

A forest monastery at the foot of the mountain, with brick tunnels lit by candles, a lake full of fish and trees hung with gentle proverbs.

Area

Doi Suthep & the West

Start from

Old city

Distance

about 5 km west of the old city

Time needed

half a day

Best season

All year; cool mornings are best

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Grab, songthaew or bicycle

Tickets & rules

None; donations welcome; temple dress code

Why go

Only a short ride from the busy university area, Wat Umong feels like another world. The temple sits in a patch of old forest at the foot of Doi Suthep, and the paths wind between huge trees, bamboo groves and monks' huts. Little signs nailed to the trunks offer one-line teachings in Thai and English, so the walk becomes a kind of slow reading.

The temple's treasure is its tunnels: low, whitewashed brick passages dug into an earth mound, with niches holding Buddha images and faded traces of old murals. Inside it is cool and dim, lit by candles and the light from the entrances. Above the tunnels stands a weathered brick chedi, overgrown at the edges.

Down the hill, a lake fills with catfish and turtles that gather noisily when visitors drop food, and chickens wander the paths. Near the tunnels sits a striking, emaciated fasting Buddha figure, a reminder of the years of extreme asceticism before the Buddha found the middle way.

The story

The temple is usually dated to the late thirteenth or fourteenth century. The best-known story says King Kuena had the tunnels built for a learned monk who loved to wander in the forest, so that he could meditate in peace and the king could find him easily. Another version credits King Mangrai with the first temple here. Either way, the tunnels are among the oldest surviving structures in the area.

After the Burmese wars the temple was abandoned and swallowed by the forest for centuries. It was revived in the mid-twentieth century, and in the 1960s it became linked to Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, the influential reformist monk from the south, whose followers set up a forest teaching centre here. The talking trees and the simple, practice-focused atmosphere come from that tradition.

Today Wat Umong still runs meditation courses and teaching sessions, some in English, and welcomes lay visitors who want to sit quietly for an hour or a week. Part of the grounds is a small library and exhibition hall. It is a working monastery rather than a showpiece, which is exactly its charm.

Getting there

Wat Umong lies off Suthep Road, about 15 minutes by Grab from the old city. Cycling is pleasant along the quieter lanes, though Suthep Road itself is busy.

You can combine it with Wat Suan Dok, which is on the same road closer to the city, or with the Monk's Trail, whose trailhead is nearby.

A suggested plan

1. 8:00Arrive while the forest is cool and the monks are sweeping.
2. 8:30Explore the tunnels slowly, letting your eyes adjust to the candlelight.
3. 9:15Climb above the tunnels to the old chedi and the fasting Buddha.
4. 10:00Walk the forest paths reading the proverb signs, then sit by the lake.
5. 11:00Lunch at one of the noodle shops along Suthep Road.

Where to stay

Nimman and the Suthep Road area are closest; quiet guesthouses near the university are ideal if you plan to attend meditation sessions.

Good to know

• Keep your voice low in the tunnels and switch your phone to silent.
• Ask at the temple office about meditation talks or retreats if you are interested.
• Mosquito repellent helps near the lake and in the shady forest.