Wat Arun by ferry: the Temple of Dawn

A porcelain-covered tower rising from the riverbank, best seen up close in the morning and from across the water at sunset.

Area

Riverside & canals

Start from

Tha Tien pier

Distance

a 3-minute ferry crossing

Time needed

1–2 hours

Best season

All year; late afternoon for sunset views

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Cross-river ferry from Tha Tien

Tickets & rules

Entry ticket; modest clothing

Why go

Wat Arun's central prang, a tall, spiky tower in the Khmer style, is covered in thousands of fragments of Chinese porcelain and seashells arranged into flowers. Up close it's astonishingly intricate; from across the river it's the defining image of Bangkok's skyline.

You can climb part of the way up the steep steps for a view over the river to the Grand Palace. The crossing itself, a short, wobbly ferry ride among long-tail boats and barges, is half the fun.

Inside the compound there's more than the famous tower: a quiet ordination hall guarded by two giant yaksha demons in white and green, cloisters lined with seated Buddhas, and small gardens where monks sweep leaves in the early morning. Many visitors photograph the prang and leave in ten minutes; give it an hour and the place opens up.

The story

Legend says that after the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, King Taksin sailed down the river and arrived at this temple at dawn, which is how it got its name, the Temple of Dawn. He made Thonburi his capital, and the temple became part of his palace grounds.

For a few years the Emerald Buddha was kept here before being moved across the river to the new Grand Palace.

The porcelain decoration is said to come from broken pottery used as ballast on Chinese trading ships, recycled by the builders into a mosaic that still sparkles two centuries later.

During the reign of King Rama II and King Rama III, the central prang was raised to its present height of about 70 metres, making it one of the tallest religious structures in old Bangkok. Its shape represents Mount Meru, the centre of the universe in Buddhist and Hindu cosmology, with the four smaller prangs at the corners standing for the cardinal directions.

Getting there

From Tha Tien pier, next to Wat Pho, small cross-river ferries leave every few minutes. You pay a tiny fare at the pier.

The Chao Phraya Express boat also stops at Wat Arun pier on some lines.

A suggested plan

1. MorningVisit right after opening when the porcelain shines and few people are around.
2. ClimbClimb to the first terraces; the steps are very steep, hold the rail.
3. AfternoonReturn to the Tha Tien side and find a riverside bar or rooftop.
4. SunsetWatch the sun set behind Wat Arun from across the river; the tower is lit after dark.

Where to stay

Riverside hotels on the Thonburi side have direct views; Tha Tien boutique hotels look straight across.

Good to know

• Dress modestly; wraps are available to rent at the entrance.
• For photos without crowds, go at opening time.
• The view from the east bank at night, when the prang is lit, is the classic shot.
• Combine with a late lunch at one of the Tha Tien rooftop cafés facing the temple.