The Grand Palace and the Emerald Buddha

A dazzling walled city of gilded roofs, mythical guardians and Thailand's most sacred image.

Area

Old town

Start from

Central Bangkok

Distance

in the city, on Rattanakosin island

Time needed

half a day

Best season

November – February is coolest; mornings all year

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Chao Phraya boat to Tha Chang pier, or taxi/Grab

Tickets & rules

Entry ticket; strict dress code (covered shoulders, long trousers or skirt)

Why go

For almost every first-time visitor, this is where Bangkok begins, and it deserves its fame. Behind long white walls lies a compound of throne halls, pavilions and temples covered in gold leaf, coloured glass and porcelain, all glittering in the morning sun.

The heart of it is Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The figure itself is small, carved from a single block of green stone and perched high on a golden altar, but the reverence around it is enormous. Around the cloister runs a long painted mural of the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana, and it's worth walking it slowly.

Come early. By late morning the courtyards are packed and the heat bounces off the marble.

The story

When King Rama I founded the new capital in 1782, moving it across the river from Thonburi, he began building this palace on the same plan as the royal palace of lost Ayutthaya. It was meant to say that the old kingdom had been reborn.

The Emerald Buddha has its own long journey. Legends place it in northern Thailand and Laos for centuries before it was brought to Bangkok. Three times a year, at the change of the hot, rainy and cool seasons, its golden costume is changed in a royal ceremony, a ritual Thais follow closely.

Look for the yaksha, the giant demon guardians at the temple gates. Each has a name from the Ramakien, and children here grow up knowing which one is which.

Getting there

The most pleasant way is by river: take the Chao Phraya Express boat to Tha Chang pier and walk a few minutes to the main gate. A taxi or Grab works too, but traffic around the old town can be slow.

Enter only through the official main gate on Na Phra Lan Road.

A suggested plan

1. 8:30Arrive at opening time, pass the dress-code check and buy tickets at the official counter inside.
2. MorningWat Phra Kaew first, then the Ramakien murals, then the palace buildings and throne halls.
3. Late morningExit and walk to Tha Tien for lunch, or continue straight to Wat Pho next door.
4. AfternoonRest somewhere cool; the old town is hardest in the midday heat.

Where to stay

Riverside guesthouses in Banglamphu and around Tha Tien put you within walking distance; otherwise any hotel near a BTS station plus a boat ride works.

Good to know

• If your clothes don't pass the check, you can buy or borrow a wrap near the entrance.
• Photography is not allowed inside the chapel of the Emerald Buddha itself.
• Bring water and a hat: there is little shade in the courtyards.
• An audio guide or a good book helps; the symbolism is rich.