Tegallalang and the rice terraces north of Ubud

The terraces from the postcards: stepped green curves on steep valley walls, fed by water channels older than most cathedrals.

Area

Ubud & centre

Start from

Ubud

Distance

about 10 km

Time needed

half a day

Best season

All year; terraces greenest a month or two after planting

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Taxi, scooter or bicycle tour

Tickets & rules

Small donations at several points along the paths

Why go

Tegallalang is the most famous rice-terrace view in Bali, a steep valley carved into terraces that look carefully sculpted. The road above is lined with cafés, but once you walk down into the terraces themselves, you can follow narrow paths along the water channels.

The rice grows in cycles, so the view changes through the year: flooded and mirror-like after planting, bright green as the rice grows, golden before the harvest. Every stage is beautiful in its own way.

North of Tegallalang, smaller villages have terraces that are just as pretty and much quieter. A bicycle tour downhill from the Kintamani area is a lovely way to see them.

The story

Bali's rice terraces are irrigated by the subak system, a cooperative water-management tradition that dates back about a thousand years. Farmers in each subak share water from springs and rivers through channels and tunnels, and decisions about planting are coordinated with water temples.

The system is as much spiritual as practical. Water is considered a gift from the gods, and ceremonies at water temples mark planting and harvest. Scholars have described subak as a remarkable example of sustainable community engineering, and it is part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing.

Small shrines in the fields are dedicated to Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice and fertility, and you'll often see fresh offerings on them in the morning.

Getting there

From Ubud, it's around 20–30 minutes by car or scooter, depending on traffic. Many drivers combine Tegallalang with Tirta Empul and Mount Batur viewpoints in a day.

Downhill cycling tours usually start further north and end near Ubud.

A suggested plan

1. 07:00Arrive early before the tour buses and the heat.
2. 07:30Walk down into the terraces and along the lower paths.
3. 09:00Coffee with a view at one of the cafés on the rim.
4. 10:00Continue north to Tirta Empul or a quieter terrace village.

Where to stay

Base yourself in Ubud, or in a guesthouse in the Tegallalang area for quiet mornings.

Good to know

• Carry small notes for the donation points; farmers maintain the paths.
• Wear shoes with grip; the earth paths are steep in places.
• The jungle swings and 'nests' along the valley are businesses with their own prices and safety standards; look before you pay.